My Wardrobe Basics :: The Alice Top ::

Hello everyone! Happy Monday! I wanted to finally share some of my makes from like forever ago, that was posted on IG then, but as it has been so long I am hoping people are not bored of it. This is my first version of the Alice top, I have already made (and worn) a second version, and even thinking of my third version. I am not going to hide it anymore, I love this pattern. 

In the summer I got quite interested in finding more about my shape. My thinking is that it will help me prioritise projects that should suit my shape - rather than spend time on projects that might not. However I find it really hard to look at myself in the mirror and accurately decide what my morphology actually is. So I measured myself, and worked out with  measurements (and on this website) that I was a pear shape - except that I am not sure I am a true pear-shape (when I look at Sewaholic patterns for instance, my hips are smaller than what they have in mind). 

All of this was done after making this top. But it happens that this top works for my shape - and even I knew it worked when I first put it on. The top got a lot of wear out of it, all summer - even though this is not my typical fabric/colour/pattern. Flowers on a peach colour background is probably my idea of a fabric gone wrong - and yet I wore this top all the time. Maybe I should open my mind a little - or definitely sew for my shape, or just keep sewing the same top ... 

And this is why this version was supposed to be a muslin - wearable if I was lucky. I never thought I would love it as much as I did. I already had the second version in mind. But isn't it great when this happens? However this post will remain a review of the pattern (so no pictures of me in it) - not that there is much to say, but details are always useful.

The pattern is the Alice Top by Tessuti Fabrics - which is available online, instant gratification, you buy it and it is in your inbox and you start straight that night... or, in my case, you loose the email, and have to ask for the pattern again - and then you can get on with it. 

I totally matched the M size measurements - it never happens to me, so I was pretty pleased. However I did read some reviews that the top ends up being big. As it happened, I did not modify anything, because when I printed the pattern, the sample rectangle that is supposed to be 10 cm x 10 cm, was in fact 9 cm x 9 cm. So I thought that was enough of a modification, and it was. So I should have probably gone down one size, if my printer was printing adequately. 

The pattern explanations are super clear - with many pictures. You cannot get it wrong really. It is quite an easy construction in the end. I had to adjust the length of it - a usual adjustment as I am quite short. This is an adjustment I should be really making before cutting the pieces - because I end up doing it every time, and I should just learn. 

So as you can imagine, I did not make the adjustment for the second version either. Whoohoo for learning from past experiences! 

Also I do not have bat wings per se, but I have issues with my arms - so I am not keen on sleeveless tops. The sleeves of the top hide perfectly this little issue, whilst being great for the summer and hot weather (yes we do have hot days in Britain!). No offending bat wings on show! 

The fabric is a Nani Iro double gauze (reference here) bought here. I have had it in my stash for a couple of summers now so it was time to get it out! I am using my existing stash for wearable muslin, and ethical fabric especially bought for the project for the actual project. I had never sewn with double gauze before - it is a bit weird, isn't it? Or maybe it is just me. Anyway, for having sewn another version with a thinner fabric, the double gauze is probably as thick as you want your fabric to be. It still has some flow but maybe not as much as I would like - I am being super picky though here, because I am wearing it a lot, so in the end it does not bother me. 

We are entering the colder season in Britain, so I am not sure this one should be on your sewing list. Unless you knit a cardigan, and then you are ready for the Autumn! If you are in the southern hemisphere, do sew it, you will love it! 

I mentioned a second version, I have posted it everywhere, so unless you only read my blog, it will not be a surprise - however I will write a full tutorial about the yoke so stay tune for some customising ideas. 

In case my version does not really inspire me, check out this one using some jacquard trim or you could be inspired by this top or this one to make your own version. 

Love/Hate [Le Challenge] :: Sewing ::

Le Challenge is back... and as per usual, I made it just...and in fact this post is really late.. But dots was the theme, and dots I give you! Let's start by the only thing that comes to my mind when I think about this project - this fabric did my head in, but I love this top. It was so slippery, I just did not control any of the sewing process - ok maybe I did a bit because it does look like the Tova it is meant to be.

Not sure I have a lot to say, except that this is my favourite make ever. It a Tova but without the collar, it is much more my style. I applied a light fusible interfacing to the placket, and finished with a bias tape (although I really need to redo this for a better finish). I also shortened the top a bit. It is a tad on the small side at the moment (to encourage me to diet better..?!)

This fabric has been in my stash for at least a couple of years, and I have no idea where I got it from. I am surprised I actually like it on me, but that blue/grey really works for me - I suppose the dots/flowers add interest? 

Here you are I hated the process, but love the result - the perfect combination for Valentine's Day?!

Does 'dots' inspire you? Link in to le challenge here for a chance to win a voucher to the Fat Quarter Shop. 

My October here and elsewhere

It is a bit late ... But here is what caught my eye in October, or is new in my house this month. 

- I am preparing my post-baby wardrobe and the Denver top pattern is SO going to have to be in it. I first saw it on Annie Cotton - and I just know that I will have to make it at some point. I am thinking a plaid version - a cosy fabric for the winter months, and a pattern that might hide the post-baby tummy. 

- I may not be a complete beginner when it comes to sewing, but sometimes it is nice to be reminded of the basics - especially that there is always an 'ugly stage'. 

- I had to wait a bit to get my new scarf - but I have been wearing every day since receiving it. I love A Peace Treaty story and how it ethically works with artisan workshops. I bought mine in the UK here. I am now hoping to make a hat that will go with it - hopefully with some naturally dyed yarn - but I am still looking for a pattern. 

- I found a new UK-based Etsy shop that sells naturally dyed yarn - and I am hoping to start knitting in November with it. It sells more than just the one skein of the one colour - and therefore would allow me to make bigger project. 

- I love that blouse and Pauline Alice's Autumn look (ok it was a September post, but I saw it in October) - such a great smart casual look! 

- My vintage purchases of the month are now in my kitchen. A flour sifter (Portmeirion Totem) and a vintage tin. Love them! My kitchen is finally getting some personality. 

- And finally I got some new comfy shoes to get ready for walking behind the pushchair - and they are vegan, but not too expensive, from Esprit. And they have zip on the sides, so my giant belly cannot stop me from wearing them! 

I suppose we are coming to the most exciting month - we will be meeting Little Baby MiH soon - I am enjoying the remaining days before sleep deprivation, and also making the most of having just the one baby - although I cannot wait to be able to pick up Baby MiH again, so frustrating to be so slow at everything! 

Has anything has caught your eyes this month... I would love to know!

Can normal sewing patterns work for maternity wear? #2

*For a chance to win one yard of organic cotton fabric dyed naturally

please make sure you enter the giveaway here*

After the fun and success of our first project together, we decided to sew together again.

So the aim is still to sew the SAME normal pattern, but the choice is probably more limited as we have to be able to adapt for maternity wear. In between the posts, we email each other of course talking about the process, what we learn, how we get on, modifications we are considering but also potential new patterns we should try. We will probably post one post together with our final garment, and another one explaining the modifications made to adapt them to our current shapes. 

Our first pattern was the TOVA from Wiksten. The second one is the Carme Blouse by Pauline Alice. There is a sew-along on Pauline's blog, and it provides instructions on how to modify the pattern for pregnancy wear.  

The Carme Blouse is a feminine shirt with a small mao style collar and lots of details! Depending on the fabric you choose, it has the potential to be very versatile, perfect for work or weekend wear. 

The pattern is definitely the most challenging one that we have used (ever), notably in terms of number of pieces you have to deal with but also the finishing (the pin tucks of course, but also the sleeves). All these details make the shirt look very professional in the end, and the sew-along makes the process as painless as possible. The instructions for this pattern are very detailed and full of illustrations. Now that the Carme is done, it really gives us confident to tackle more advanced projects.  

As for the fit, we both had to grade it, and still wondering whether the fit is right. It may be an idea to go one size smaller than the measurements suggest to make it more fitted, which will work better (even for the maternity version). A lot of bloggers have made a few versions of the Carme blouse for their wardrobe. The look is quite distinctive, and there may be some many Carme you would want to have in your wardrobe. The process may also deter us from making more of them, but it is probably not a definite no - just a no right now.

We would rate this an advanced intermediate pattern - there are few tricky bits and a lot of finishing to do (and many trips to the ironing board for those pin tucks!), and many pieces to handle (and try not to lose). Do choose a fabric that marks easily - there are a lot of things that will go on it. 

Have you made the Carme blouse? What was your experience? For our own modifications, check out our blogs in the course of the week! 

We have chosen our next pattern (with less pieces), and now comes the choice of fabrics - always an exciting part!

Maternity Wear # 2 - The EcoFabrics Top and a Discount Code | A Finish {Dressmaking}

These pictures were nearly never taken - this is our last shoot before we had to fly out of Brittany (ie a couple of hours before the flight was actually due to take off), but I am so happy we took the time to take the pictures. Of course on the blog, it is about the top and the fabric I chose, but I do love that picture with Baby MiH, showing his addiction to the sand, and me thinking, please please don't eat it.

Going back to this new pregnancy top... I have actually already made a top out this pattern (from a Japanese book, in French but honestly it is all about the pictures) - and in fact I took pictures of it back in Brittany whilst pregnant with Baby MiH - can you see why I was so keen to take pictures out there. 

I knew it was a great fit for pregnancy wear, but this time I wanted to have a much lighter fabric than Essex linen (this year's summer has been much hotter). 

Let's start by the minor modification for pregnancy wear. Although the pattern (cut in my normal size M) fitted me until I was 5/6 months pregnant without any changes the first time round (and I am a little bit smaller this time), I decided to add some fabric at the gathering stage at the front, in a similar way as with the Tova. I added 2 inches to the pattern (4 inches in total). I reckon I probably added another 2 months for pregnancy wear and it can still be worn as an oversized blouse when I am no longer pregnant. 

I also cut a size bigger for the sleeves, because the pattern seems to fit skinny arms only. I cut the sleeves in L, and added another 1 cm when cutting the fabric. 

The fabric, well let me tell you, I am very excited about this. My readers will know that I am trying to find fabrics/craft supplies that are ethical and environmental-friendly - and this is my first find. I had been looking for a while on the net, and then thought of Etsy - and this is where you will end up on the Eco Fabric Store run by Vishruti, which stores organic, naturally dyed fabrics.

And it is quite hard to find fabric prints that I like, and fit with my sustainability aspirations, that I wanted to know about more about Vishruti and her shop, and share it on the blog so that if you buy her fabric, you too will feel part of the Eco Fabric Store story. 

Hi Vishruti, how long have you been interested in environmental friendly processes in the dyeing of fabric?

Since my teens, I have always been interested in Eco, Organic, Recycled, Earth-Friendly ways of living. It is something that was a part of my lifestyle even before I knew it. My businesses too always reflect the same sentiment and values.

Tell me more about the Eco Fabric Store and its values. 

The Eco Fabric Store was born recently on March 21, 2014, and is based in Mumbai in India. However I have another 3 other shops on Etsy , so technically I am an Etsy shop seller since February 2009. You can only find me on Etsy at the moment, but I am planning to build my independant website as well. 

All my fabrics are Eco Friendly and Earth friendly. The yarns are natural and are hundred percent biodegradable. We also offer a variety of fabrics made from Eco and Earth friendly fibers such as Organic Cotton, Bamboo, Hemp, Soyabean Protein, Banana and Ahimsa Silk. 

I used to have my own organic cotton garmenting and manufacturing unit which was certified by GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards) . However I closed my unit because of my marriage and moving to another city, but kept very good contacts and friendships with the certified mills I used to work with and all the fabrics that I am selling on Etsy are from those certified mills only. I work with local communities, and all her products are a representation of local communities, paying fair wages and generating local employment. These are stringent tests that they have to pass to gain the certification.

What dyeing process do you use?

The naturally dyeing process is a GOTS Approved Natural Dyeing (also referred as Vegetable dyeing, Herbal Dyeing). We have developed the expertise to dye/print with flowers, roots, fruits, etc.  like turmeric, onion, myraballams, madder, kesu flowers, dhavadi flowers, natural indigo etc. This not only prevents water pollution due to replacement of petrochemical dyes with vegetable dyes/natural dyes,but also imparts medicinal value to cloth as many herbs used for dyeing are having high medicinal value. Also, this is not a newfound process, it was a common practice in ancient India. Historically done by hand and on small scale.

Do you design the pattern? 

Yes, being a designer, I also design fabric patterns. I also take personal or custom orders from clients who like to create a range or produce a custom line for themselves only. I also have a little block printing space where I create fabrics prints using unique OOAK wooden blocks for myself and my family. 

What can we expect to find in your shop? 

Hopefully there will be more designs available each season, and very soon trimmings. However working with nature needs me to work according to its moods ! For instance the rainy season doesn't allow the natural dyes to dry soon. There is also high humidity issues which causes certain pigments to coagulate which is why certain colours cannot be prepared in certain seasons. For updates, you should like her Facebook page. 

And because Vishruti is such a nice person, you can use the discount code: MADEINHOME10 to get 10% off any purchase in her shop.

As for me, I cannot wait to get started on other projects using the other fabrics I bought in her shop. I am also really tempted by her new tribal print, and I have noticed that she has posted an amazing dark red version of it. 

Maternity Wear #1 - the TOVA | A finish {Dressmaking}

Here is the full Tova post that explains it all. Unfortunately I am not going to impress you with wonderfully clever modifications to this pattern to work for maternity wear. It was really easy to make it work for my bump, which I suppose is a good thing as the last thing I can/want to do at the moment is making some weird mathematical schemes to change a pattern. 

And all the credit goes to the pattern - which is well-written and with an interesting construction - without being too complex (the front and the back are cut on the fold). To be honest the limited number of pieces worried me around the bust area - which is doing its own thing at the moment - I was wondering whether it would be too lost or too tight.

Although it does not appear in this post (I did post on IG), I actually made a proper muslin for this pattern. Not wearable at all - a proper muslin just for the sake of understanding the construction and whether it would work on me, what a concept! There are two things that became really clear: a dress would not work on me (it looked so wrong) and that the fabric needed to be light-weight because of the amount of gathering involved at the front. 

The amount of gathering seemed adequate from the start (I made a headstart by reading other bloggers' experience), and the top should see me through my pregnancy for at least another 2/3 months. 

As I am destashing, I had to use fabric from my stash. I am so happy I actually bought fabric that I liked, otherwise project destash would be a right nightmare. You will have already recognised the fabric - Nani Iro Spring 2014 collection, 100% cotton double gauze that I got from Miss Matatabi. 

I made a huge (well probably not huge, but huge for me) Nani Iro order, so expect more Nani Iro to appear in my project destash. 

I made a few modifications to the pattern, but only one to adapt it for maternity wear and that is to add 8 inches to the gathering piece (so 4 inches on the fold to the pattern - I basically added a rectangle to the pattern). In terms of size, I did the L (12/14 in the UK) - one size bigger than my normal size - but once I had done the French seams, it is probably a big M/small L (10/12), so my normal size. 

Other modifications made were:

• to make a slimmer placket (from 1 inch recommended by the pattern to 3/4 inch)
• to shorten the sleeves by 2 inches
• to take in 2.5 inches from the bottom of the top ( I kept the length in case out of proportions like with my first pregnancy)
• also I had issues with the collar when I made the muslin, so added an inch on each side to the collar pattern to ensure I have enough fabric to cover adequately the collar (this may be a problem because of the fabric I used for the muslin)
• And I used French seams everywhere except on the side. I love French seams! 

The finishing is really what makes this top so special - and I received a lot of compliments (at work and from friends) - probably the combination of an interesting fabric and a well fitted garment. 

And in case you are wondering how long I could wear it, I asked the wind just to show you how far and wide I could go. I am looking very impressed! 

I am wearing; handmade top; my friend's pregnancy jeans from H&M; 

Pikolinos shoes seen here; sunglasses, Tiffany's from a long time ago; 

necklace, thrifted (one of my best purchases) 

You can find Michelle's modifications here if you are not pregnant (so nearly all my readers right!) and would like to know more about the dress version. 

Also I have to tell you a very random fact, nerdy sewer that I am, French seams are translated as English seams in French. Amazing! 

$3,000, really Isabel, really? | Inspiration {Dressmaking}

* Do not forget to enter my current giveaway for a chance 

to win a skein of TFA Mulberry Silk and knit your own beret*

Edited later: Sorry there are so many amendments to this post since I wrote it this morning!! SO this top is available in Europe for EUR 230.00 and not $3000 as I saw it on Net-a-Porter in the morning, it changes to $334 by 2pm (hence the trail in the comment box). The fact remains that it is still cheaper to make your own version (so no excuse people!). So I amended the post for those who have seen the morning version to reflect the new pricing. Phew - the editing is nearly as big as the actual post!!  

There are a few reasons why I am keen to improve on my dressmaking skills - one of them is to able to recreate some items of my favourite fashion designers, for instance Isabel Marant, and save some pennies in the process. 

I love Isabel Marant's style (I knitted my first jumper because of her) but I cannot afford her items (well maybe one if I am on a serious shopping spree), unless she does a collaboration with H&M. 

Pattern: from Burdastyle 04/2014; 

Fabric: Fredo Linen (latte not that keen on ecru): The Fabric Godmother or 

this printed Silk gauze from MacCulloch and Wallis

Probable modifications: ruffles (see my tutorial here) and shorten the sleeves

to be honest my main issue with the Burdastyle top is its length, so I would have to lengthen it, no one wants to see my stretch marks

Top: You can buy it on NaP

So let's do the maths...

Hmmm.. I am sure you could even invest the money you would save into a sewing course!

I already wanted to make the top when I bought the current issue of the BurdaStyle magazine (one of my favourite issues). Well, I just want to have/make it, like now!! Even Mr MiH will be impressed!  

The Rising Sun | Le Challenge {Inspiration}

For you IG and twitter followers, you know that I have made good 

progress with this month's Le Challenge. Here is a sneak peek... 

I am sharing my inspiration on Le Challenge today... 

How are you doing with your projects? 

Cooters End Lane

Mixing (my) handmade and high street... 

Wearing: Top, Made in Home (blogged here); Bag, Made in Home (not blogged yet); Scarf: Accessorize; Jeans: New Look: Sunglasses bought in France 

Breton butterfly top {Le Challenge #3}

Here is my take on this month's theme - maritime - a feminine version of the Breton top. The pattern is from a Japanese book in French. Although as with other Japanese sewing books, the information is minimal, and relies on very good diagrams. I managed to make one so I am sure you can too. 

I did make a quick muslin first - to understand the construction, but also check the length of it. It seemed to be on the short side in the pictures. I am glad I made a muslin, I found out that the sleeves were a bit large, and that I wanted a bit more room in the body of the top.  

Pattern: C-Top from Exclusivement Feminin

Fabric: lightweight jersey (from my local John Lewis in Welwyn Garden City)

I did not change much. I made the size L (I am a size 12/14 in the UK, EU42). I added 1 cm to the seam allowance, I added 2 cm to the length seam allowance, and I did not use any seam allowance for the sleeves (to make them slightly shorter). However I reduced the 'larger' size at the end after trying the top a few times.  The neckline is therefore a bit deeper than it would have been. 

The neckline is made according to the pattern, but it was really fiddly. Next time I will change the way I do it. 

The seams are red, adding a bit of fun. You also see the seams of the butterfly sleeves when you wear it so it was worth thinking about the seams. 

It took no time at all in the end - which I am still surprised at considering it looks quite complicated. It is a great top for the summer - and is that little bit more dressy than my usual Tshirts. 

Next time, I will probably not go for stripes, the matching is quite complicated - especially if you keep decreasing the size. At least these were small stripes and to a certain extent I think it matters less (or so I am telling myself)...