Maternity Wear #3 - the Carme Blouse | A finish {Dressmaking}

Here is the dedicated post to the Carme blouse by Pauline Alice and the maternity wear modifications. I made a (very small) mock version of the modifications which I hope will help those who would like to adapt the pattern. I also made minor changes to the pattern. But let me start by saying that I would not have been able to complete the pattern without the sew-along - well I would, but it would have taken even more time than it already did. Also it is quite reassuring knowing that you are doing the right thing. I did not follow all the steps of the sew-along, just a couple (the maternity modification, the pin tucks and the sleeves vents).

The fabric is 'plumetis' (or swiss dot fabric, thanks Sonja for the translation) - a fine lightweight dress fabric of cotton that is woven with raised dots  on a plain background producing an embroidered effect. I tend to use lightweight fabric for maternity wear tops because there is so much bulk you can away with. I had mine in my stash - I found it at Ma Petite Mercerie (a French shop), I got the taupe colour, but there is a wide range of colour. 

I had 5 matching buttons in my stash - bought in a charity shop a bit of time ago - that I really wanted to use. I had to adjust the placket accordingly - 3 buttons for the placket and 2 to be able to roll up the sleeves. I also changed the collar - making it smaller so it is flush with the placket. I like Mao style collar but I thought the original collar sat a bit too high - I suppose my version is more casual. 

So here are the maternity wear modifications. The sew-along modifications suggest a gathering alterations (as I did with Tova) but I wanted to try another modifications - using a pleat. Although I like the finish, it is a bit tricky to match the end of the placket with the middle of the pleat. 

Here are a few pictures on how to make the pleat.

1. Mark the excess fabric (the sew along modification makes this easy) and the centre

2. Match the marks and pin

 3. Draw a line for about 5'

4. Baste (I am a great believer in basting but I know it adds steps). I only use one knot so it is easy to remove. 

5. Iron down the pleat in the middle

6. Match the centre of the top and bottom fabrics

7. Pin and sew according to pattern seam allowance

8. Et voila!  

It is quite a neat way to do it. I think it can really work for both maternity wear and just adding a feature to a top. I am hoping it means that I will also get some wear out of the Carme post-pregnancy. 

I love the sleeves details - it makes the shirt much a more professional finish compared to other tops I have made. 

As you can see it is totally wearable for any occasion, even on a bouncy castle with a toddler (I am not event looking too pregnant in this picture). 

I wished I had left a bit of fabric at the bottom. I am now nearly 7 months pregnant and it is fine, but it is probably not going to last me that long - although the maternity jeans is/will be helpful. 

I made a size 42/44 (following the measurements) but I should have really stuck to my normal size (40/42) - it would have been a bit more hugging, and less pregnancy-like. But give me a month, and I might be happy to have that excess fabric on the sides! 

I do love that shirt, it works for casual look as well as work wear. I like how the plumetis adds interest to the fabric in a subtle way. You can read Michelle's review here. 

This is of course not my first time sewing a Pauline Alice patterns, and in addition to the sew along videos the illustrations are really good and make the process very enjoyable. You can see my Cami dress and Malvarosa dress here and here - all made when I was not pregnant, those were easy times to sew garments! 

Can normal sewing patterns work for maternity wear? #2

*For a chance to win one yard of organic cotton fabric dyed naturally

please make sure you enter the giveaway here*

After the fun and success of our first project together, we decided to sew together again.

So the aim is still to sew the SAME normal pattern, but the choice is probably more limited as we have to be able to adapt for maternity wear. In between the posts, we email each other of course talking about the process, what we learn, how we get on, modifications we are considering but also potential new patterns we should try. We will probably post one post together with our final garment, and another one explaining the modifications made to adapt them to our current shapes. 

Our first pattern was the TOVA from Wiksten. The second one is the Carme Blouse by Pauline Alice. There is a sew-along on Pauline's blog, and it provides instructions on how to modify the pattern for pregnancy wear.  

The Carme Blouse is a feminine shirt with a small mao style collar and lots of details! Depending on the fabric you choose, it has the potential to be very versatile, perfect for work or weekend wear. 

The pattern is definitely the most challenging one that we have used (ever), notably in terms of number of pieces you have to deal with but also the finishing (the pin tucks of course, but also the sleeves). All these details make the shirt look very professional in the end, and the sew-along makes the process as painless as possible. The instructions for this pattern are very detailed and full of illustrations. Now that the Carme is done, it really gives us confident to tackle more advanced projects.  

As for the fit, we both had to grade it, and still wondering whether the fit is right. It may be an idea to go one size smaller than the measurements suggest to make it more fitted, which will work better (even for the maternity version). A lot of bloggers have made a few versions of the Carme blouse for their wardrobe. The look is quite distinctive, and there may be some many Carme you would want to have in your wardrobe. The process may also deter us from making more of them, but it is probably not a definite no - just a no right now.

We would rate this an advanced intermediate pattern - there are few tricky bits and a lot of finishing to do (and many trips to the ironing board for those pin tucks!), and many pieces to handle (and try not to lose). Do choose a fabric that marks easily - there are a lot of things that will go on it. 

Have you made the Carme blouse? What was your experience? For our own modifications, check out our blogs in the course of the week! 

We have chosen our next pattern (with less pieces), and now comes the choice of fabrics - always an exciting part!