Bamboo Silk :: A Sustainable Fabric Alternative (if chosen carefully) ::

* Don't forget to enter my current giveaway here*

Let's be honest I never had a lot of silk in my stash - in fact I only have one piece of silk which I have been too scared to actually start cutting into. I bought it on sale some time ago, it was pretty, cheap and I felt quite brave at the time. And now it is stuck in my stash. 

Later on I read about the process to obtain silk - basically boiling the worms alive inside their cocoons. To ensure that the silk filament is whole, culturists must destroy the chrysalis. This is done by stoving, or stifling the chrysalis with heat.This is heavily protested against by animal rights activists and vegans, who view the killing of these chrysali which would soon emerge as moths, immoral and cruel. So I  decided that silk would not be added to my stash (or wardrobe) anymore - but that was an easy decision - the same however applies to yarn of course - a harder decision for me. 

However I do love the feel of silk. A silk top will always add a bit of glamour to an outfit. I like the drape, even though I am not that keen to work myself with silk. So what ethical alternatives could provide a similar glamour factor? 

This top from this collection

I looked alternatives to silk, such as "Peace" or "Ahimsa" silk. Most cultivated Ahimsa Silk is Bombyx mori. It is raised just like conventional cultivated silk, right up to the point where the cocoons would be stifled, or processed with heat, in order to kill the pupa and keep it from breaking through the cocoon. The Ahimsa cocoons are all allowed to hatch and breed, and the silk is processed from the hatched cocoons. In some cases, the cocoons can be cut open and the pupa tipped out; this avoids the moth soiling the cocoon with urine. There is however some controversy about the cruelty-free aspect on this silk as well.  

Humane alternatives to silk—including nylon, milkweed seed pod fibers, silk-cotton tree and ceiba tree filaments, polyester, and rayon—are also easy to find. Another alternative is bamboo silk. I made a top with bamboo silk (not blogged yet) - and I loved the drape, and using the fabric. Although it is slippery, it is nowhere as slippery as silk. Whilst researching bamboo silk a bit more, I have now discovered that it might not be as sustainable as it might seem. 

Bamboo is an extremely fast growing grass taking only 4-5 years to fully mature and harvest (compare that with 20 years or more for other woods). It can grow up to a meter a day, and re-sprouts through its roots, so there’s no need for replanting. The plant’s growth puts little strain on the environment because it requires no pesticides or irrigation for growth, and can be harvested sustainably.

However turning bamboo into a silky fabric requires highly intensive chemical processes. The undertaking is a viscose rayon process, turning a cellulose fibre (plant material) into fabric. Any plant or tree—in this case bamboo—can be used as a cellulose source, but the fabrication transforms bamboo into rayon, and must be labelled as so. Not all ‘regenerating cellulose fibres’ are chemical intensive. For example, producing lyocell captures and reuses 99% of the waste.

The growing of bamboo is environmentally friendly but the manufacturing of bamboo into fabric raises environmental and health concerns because of the strong chemical solvents used to cook the bamboo plant into a viscose solution that is then reconstructed into cellulose fiber for weaving into yarn for fabric.

Bamboo silk fibre - picture from here

Some bamboo fibre manufacturing facilities put forward their sustainability and green credentials by establishing ISO 9000 Quality Management policies and ISO 14000 Environmental Management policies. This is largely a PR excercise because these ISO standards do not mean that the facilities, their manufacturing processes or their fabrics have been certified by any of the international certification bodies such as SKAL, Soil Association, Demeter, KRAV, or OKO-tex.

So not all bamboo fabric is eco-friendly. Some companies choose to chemically process the bamboo. Look for the Oeko-Tek certification (like this one in the UK) to ensure that you are purchasing true eco-fabric.

I will use the silk in my stash - it is there, it is still beautiful. But I like working with bamboo silk better, I have already made a top out of it, and there are cream and black fabrics in my stash ready to be used. 

Have you used bamboo silk or silk? Which ethical fabric do you like working with best? 

The Way I Blog :: Truly Myrtle ::

* Don't forget to enter my current giveaway here*

Happy Sunday everyone! I hope you are all having a great weekend! As you can see I decided to blog regularly from now on, but I am still trying to find the right balance between crafting, blogging and of course my life. I have also often questioned the way I am/was blogging, and interact here. And as always when it comes to learning, I ask people I admire to tell me more about their experience. Libby will kindly be sharing 'the way she blogs' today (she also has a newsletter, a podcast, very active IG and facebook accounts... and 4 children - I mean whoah!). It is really instructive, and there are definitely points I will take on board for my own blog! Thanks so much Libby!

Hello everyone! Thanks for inviting me over Nat! I'm really happy to be here and to chat to you all about blogging.

WHO'S TRULY MYRTLE?

I'm Libby aka Truly Myrtle. These days I design knitting patterns and chat about my patterns on my blog but for a long time Truly Myrtle was an on-line space where I simply enjoyed sharing all my creative adventures. I chatted about knitting, sewing and spinning and generally had a ball.

Truly Myrtle started in 2012, a couple of years after I started following a bunch of craft and knitting bloggers. I felt so inspired reading about other people's projects and over time found myself wanting to take part and start a blog of my own. I was terribly nervous writing those first posts. Would anyone read them? Did I really have anything interesting to say? I tried not to let nerves stop me though - I grabbed my little digital camera and dove straight in taking lots of photos and putting together posts for my imaginary readers! I tried to tell a story or teach a lesson in most of my posts and that wasn't too hard because I am always trying new things and learning new stuff. For a long time my husband checked all my spelling and grammar before I pushed "publish" (he still checks my newsletters!) It's amazing the little mistakes that are easily missed and an error free post is much nicer to read.

I can't believe I've been blogging for nearly four years, it's been super exciting to see Truly Myrtle evolve into something. I didn't anticipate how a blog would connect me with so many fabulous people and I love the community that's grown around Truly Myrtle. I never imagined how much I'd learn (like how to write basic computer code!) and my creativity has been pushed and stretched, which has been super exciting.

I haven't ever had a hard and fast rule about how often to blog although mostly I have tried to post at least once a week. In general the frequency of my posts has tended to vary depending on what else is going on in my life. I've had times when I've had so much to say that I've posted three or more times in a week and others where weeks have gone by without a peep. A couple of times I've played with the idea of using just photographs for posts - once when we were having a "staycation" and again when we moved from the UK to live in New Zealand. I do make sure I label each of my posts so that it's quick to find them again. For example, I tag each of my podcast posts "podcast" so that I can link to them easily in my menu.

MY PROCESS

Photos are the foundation of all my posts. Over the last couple of years I've become more and more interested in photography so that now I can't really begin writing until I've taken some photos. A year or so in I decided that I wanted to shoot better photos so bought a DSLR and took a photography night class. Both really helped (along with a whole lot of practice).

The process of gathering my bits and pieces to illustrate my post, styling them and taking pictures sets my imagination whirling and it's during that time I get a feel of exactly what I want to write and where my post is going. When I'm writing a longer article (I publish a monthly "mini-mag" newsletter) I spend a bit of time researching - but then it's still always photographs before words!

All of Libby's patterns are available here

I wish I could tell you that I am a master at editing my photos but quite frankly I'm not. I import all my photos onto my Mac Laptop and use the very basic software in the photo programme to crop and adjust them. I try to take photos that need very little editing so that I'm not stuck later. For buttons and photos including text I use the free service PicMonkey. It's super easy to manage and does everything I need it to.

I'm very conscious these days of readers being overwhelmed with information and you hear a lot that blogs are dying in favour of short, quippy media like Facebook and Instagram. I've always tried to keep my posts a reasonable length. Partly, because I have only a limited amount of time available to write them and also because I know people are busy. Having said that my posts do vary depending on my mood and what I'm sharing! I don't have a particular format that I follow when I'm writing but usually I pop a picture in first.

BLOGGING GOODIES

I've learnt a lot through blogging - a lot about the process of blogging but also a lot about me.

Here are my top tips for getting started and writing a blog:

• Just start. Don't think about it too hard, just dive in and post something. It doesn't have to be perfect! It takes a while to find your "voice" so it's good to experiment and take risks.
• Be you. I can't stress this enough. It'll be easier to keep blogging if you are true to yourself and not second-guessing what people might want. People often tell me when I meet them that I'm just the same in real life. It's true! I can only be me.
• Don't worry too hard about what to write about. Look around you, the best topics are often right under your nose. Keep it simple and narrow your focus. I find it works best when I limit my posts to just one or two ideas.
• Tell a story. I love a good story and so will your readers. Especially a story that develops over several posts. I think you can turn almost anything into a good story. Remember the details, elaborate with pictures and enjoy yourself.
• Talk to your readers - both in your posts and in real life. Reply to them, ask them questions. Get to know them. It's exciting watching a community grow around you.
• Don't look at the numbers. Most likely they'll only depress you! I've only just installed google analytics - don't fret over how many people are reading your blog. Celebrate engaged readers that never miss a post and leave you lots of great feedback rather than getting thousands of readers that only dip in once.
• Meet other bloggers. This is super fun. Once you start blogging you're already part of a great community and people are mostly really friendly and welcoming. Visit other blogs and leave comments. You know how good that feels! If you want to collaborate with someone, take a risk and email them. You'll be surprised how many people you'll end up calling friends even though you've never met.

BALANCE

I've been doing a lot of knitwear design over the last year and the way I blog has changed a little as I've gotten busier. I tend to schedule posts in advance and pre-plan posts, especially when I'm releasing a new pattern for example. I've been thinking a lot lately about how my blog will evolve as my business grows and what's the best way to promote Truly Myrtle Designs. While I have started a podcast and a newsletter and those are going well, I'm also working on some exciting plans for my blog for the next year. There are so many interesting topics that grow out of knitting design - yarn choices, caring for knitted garments, sourcing great yarn, talking to other people in the industry, know how and tutorials. But many of my readers have been with me since the beginning and they enjoy hearing about the sewing, spinning and jewellery making I do, so I intend to make space for them too.

The thing I really love about blogging is that I'm the boss. Truly Myrtle is my space on the internet and I can experiment and play around there as much as I like. It's very fun.

Libby is wearing one of her latest designs - the Koru hat - which I intend to knit very soon.

Libby aka Truly Myrtle, is a knitting pattern designer living in rural New Zealand with her husband, four children, a big vege garden, a gaggle of chickens, a flock of sheep and a puppy.
She designs modern knitting patterns that are clear & easy to follow and a pleasure to knit and wear.
Join in the fun and explore the Truly Myrtle blog at www.trulymyrtle.com to find out about Libby's patterns, free tutorials, knit alongs and more crafty fun! 

Deliciously Ella :: My Review ::

* Don't forget to enter my current giveaway here*

Happy Thursday everyone! So I am not sure how to start this post. Shall I start by telling you how this post came out... I mentioned in a previous post that my lifestyle changed when I watched hungry for change. And I started to look out for healthy recipes inspiration, where no refined sugar would be used. I must admit I never followed the Deliciously Ella blog. I heard of her (through Grazia probably) but did not know who she was. She happens to be a gluten-free vegan who was really sick and got better through a total change of diet (this is a very short version of a long story). 

She changed her lifestyle, and got much better - no refined sugar. This book was for me!

So I got the book out of the library. In the end I tried 13 recipes from Deliciously Ella over a period of a month. I posted some of the pictures on IG as I went along. It was a case of deciding whether I would buy the book or not. So here is my review...

Well it started very well. My first test was the hazelnut spread (a no refined sugar version of nutella) and it was delicious. Everyone was eating it at home (without any questioning). I felt great to have a healthier version of a chocolate spread for the boys. Then came the butternut squash curry, and again it was great. I was about to go onto amazon and buy it... 

But I needed to test more recipes .... and this is when it started to go wrong. And when I say wrong, I mean seriously wrong. The baked beans were my biggest failure, followed closely by the easy avocado chocolate mousse (you should have seen the face of Baby MiH). 

At the same time I started noticing that I was putting on weight a bit. This is not a diet book - but the editing may make you think that you could be healthy and .. thin. It was not my experience. Anyway, as I said it is not a diet book, so I cannot hold this against the book.

However I started to really dive into it by then, and try to use it. Did someone actually edit this book? Seriously. Let's say you want to find the easy avocado chocolate mousse (probably not considering how bad it is but this is an example), well it is under avocado and not chocolate mousse, euh why? There are some pasta recipes, and it is not indicated in the recipes that she is using brown rice pasta, you have to look in the introduction remarks, why? I can take pretty-ish pictures of recipes but my versions looked nothing like the pictures in the book - in fact some pictures could not be replicated by the recipe because some of the elements in the pictures were not in the recipe. 

And shall we talk about the mugs, OMG, who measure their ingredients by mugs, and what size of mugs are we talking about here?? This is not 'awesome' - if someone is going to edit her next books, please, please, please remove 'awesome', it is really annoying!! Finally refer to page xx is just not a helpful reference. As you can see I did read the book, and got quite angry... 

The editing issue is quite funny, albeit really annoying. But more seriously, there are real issues with portion size - I am not sure 600g of dry pasta is what 4 people eat (or should eat). As a general rule, I halved all the recipes instructions to go back to normal portion sizes.

But the biggest thing for me is that yes there are some great recipes in there (although I could find them for free on the web, should I looked a bit more) but some really bad ones as well - and you can see from the ingredients list that it was going to be bad. And it involves quite pricey ingredients, and I could not afford to throw more food away. 

I am not sure a high sugar and high (healthy) fat is the right healthy path for me - but everyone is different and it clearly worked for Ella. It feels that the editor has rushed the publication of a book to ride on a new diet, and put a lot of PR behind it, rather than test all the recipes thoroughly and spend just a bit of time to finish the recipes. I know Ella has a lot of followers, I have not tested any of her blog's recipe, maybe it is worth sticking to them? 

This is a condensed version of my experience. You should read some of the reviews on amazon it is pretty funny and much harsher than my review. As you can imagine this is one book I will not buy, however I am going to keep a couple of recipes with me: the hazelnut spread, the butternut squash curry and the pesto. Also I need to thank her for introducing to dates and almond butter (the best treat ever!) and also to my food processor, who knew it was such a versatile kitchen tool! Get it from your library, and bring it back. 

Has anyone tried the recipes? What did you think? 

Yarn with Attitude :: Manos del Uruguay :: [GIVEAWAY]

Hello Everyone! Happy Equinox and more importantly let the knitting season truly begin! And I have just the yarn brand for you and your ethical stash - Manos del Uruguay. I am sure you heard of the brand, but have you ever knitted with it? I had not. And although I was on a stash diet, I added some skeins to my current stash - oops but I am weak when it comes to test ethical yarns. I started knitted the variegated brown skein shown in my pictures - the perfect autumnal colourway, don't you think? And it knits beautifully, I hope it will look great on me too, brown is my colour apparently, but I don't wear it that often. Also I am never sure what to make with variegated yarn - Manos del Uruguay also has some block colours as well (which I may have 'accidentally' also added to my stash). 

There are different elements that makes yarn special from an ethical point of view, and supporting and empowering communities is a key aspect for me. Manos has, as a non-profit social organization, provided jobs for craftswomen living in Uruguay rural areas since 1968. And during 2009, and after a comprehensice evaluation process, Manos del Uruguay was accepted as a member of the World Fair Trade Organization. This acknowledges Manos del Uruguay mission of eradicating poverty through sustainable economic growth, enabling craftspeople to improve the quality of their craft products, so that, in this way, they can continue their personal development.

This video will probably make you understand why I see a lot of Manos del Uruguay yarn in my future only ethical stash. 

 What the website did not cover was the animal welfare aspect. So I contacted Manos and asked the question, and was very pleased with the response I got. Manos sources their yarns mainly locally and also from foreign sources. In Uruguay the sheep are bred in large cattle ranches, at open air, gazing from natural pastures. There is no mulessing in Uruguay. Manos buys their alpaca yarns in Peru from a well know and responsible Company based in Areuipa. A small part of their yarns is spun in China from South American wool. The silk they use is tussah (a more ethical way to collect cocoons) imported from India. So a lot of care has gone into getting the yarn as well.

What a great option to have, there are many yarn weights to choose from as well. I am knitting the silk blend, but have also some Maxima in my stash, and hopefully will be able to start knitting it soon (just need to finish this cardigan). 

But what would you be knitting should you win the above skein of Manos Silk Blend? Let me know in the comment box for a chance to enter this giveaway. 

Followers have another chance to enter the giveaway (let me know how you follow my blog in a separate comment). 

(There might be another skein given away on instagram as well...)

The giveaway ends Wednesday 7 October at 5pm (UK time). I hope to share what I am knitting with my skein then. 

And please, please, please leave me a way to contact you if you are a no-reply blogger. Good luck!

* This is not a sponsored post - I am just really careful at selecting yarn going into my stash, and sharing my findings here*

Follow your passion :: Interview with Pauline of Pauline Alice Patterns

Hello everyone! I hope everyone had a great weekend.

Have you ever wondered how it would feel to give up your day job and follow your passion, and make it work. I am not about to do that, in fact I am going back to my day job in November - but this was my dream job for a long time. Now I am wondering more and more what it would be like to do something with this crafting obsession I have. To find out more I have decided to interview those who just went for it.  

This month I am talking to Pauline of Pauline Alice patterns about her experience as an indie pattern designer. She has her own style, so feminine yet simple, it is no wonder I have already sewn three of her patterns (here, here and here). She is also French and lives abroad, in Spain in her case, so I feel we have a bit in common as well. I hope you enjoyed this series as much as I do.

Turia dungarees

Hi Pauline, so tell us more about you getting involved in sewing?

I started sewing when I moved to Spain. I was reading some sewing blogs and thought I would love to try it. So I bought a machine and started sewing with some vintage patterns.

- Have you always known you were going to be a pattern designer? 

I have always loved to design, draw and make things in general. As a teenager, I fancied myself a future fashion designer but didn’t go through and ended up studying English literature at university. But I loved fashion and always dreamt of doing something artistic and creative.

- When did you start to draft your own patterns? How did you acquire the skills you needed to feel you could start of? 

I started making self-drafted patterns a few months after starting to sew. At the beginning, they were easy (a simple skirt or dress) and I guess not very well-fitted, but I loved the possibilities it offered. I made my first commercial pattern in September 2013. During the 3 previous years, I had learnt to make tailored garments and draft some patterns by reading some books on the subject, taking classes on internet (I’m a big fan of Craftsy) and lots of toiles!

Details from Eliana dress

- What would say your signature style in your designs is?

My style is clearly feminine and with a retro flair. I think the signature style would be a fit and flare dress and a great coat – I love coats! The common theme would be feminine details: it can be a pleated yoke, or a collar, pockets – yes what my patterns have in common are pockets: they all have pockets! Which means, I guess, that the Pauline Alice sewists like girly and practical garments ;-)

- What is your best-selling pattern? 

My best selling pattern is still the Camí dress, the first pattern I released. It has to do with the fact that it’s great for everyday and every season (my own version is here).

- When did you make the switch from 'regular work to make business out of your passion? 

The first two years in Spain, I had a “regular” job, but every free time I had I spent sewing. When my contract ended, I thought it was the perfect time to think about what I wanted to do. So I started drafting the Camí dress and releasing it on PDF first.

- Do you have an aim in mind - number of patterns per year, number of sales, etc? 

I try to release between 4 and 6 patterns per year but I don’t have any bigger aim. I try to get better patterns every time and learn from the sewists reviews.

- How do you run the business side of Pauline Alice? Do you have external help (at this stage)?

I work alone at home, the business part is the most difficult for me. If I could I would spend all my time designing patterns but unfortunately, there’s a lot more that needs to be done: invoices, books, shipments… Sometimes I would like to have an external point of view. Being on my own, it’s difficult to see the big picture and know what decisions are good or not.

- What do you do to make your workplace an enriching and inspiring place to be?

I’m not sure my workplace is enriching or inspiring ;-) I work at home and I’m lucky enough to have my home room to work (even though the whole house if full of fabric, patterns, boxes…). But I’m dreaming of a big studio… maybe in my next house.

 - What sort of things are inspiring you right now?

I like to spend time looking at Pinterest, don’t we all? But sometimes I’m inspired by looks on the street, in a movie, a magazine.

- When do you feel the most creative?

 Usually the best ideas occur when I’m not looking for one! So I try to always carry a notebook and pencil with me to draw.

- How do you combat creative blocks?

I try to think about something else and just relax. As I just told you before, ideas don’t always come when you need them.

- How do you know that designs will resonate with people?

I guess you never know. Sometimes you spend a lot of time on a pattern and it doesn’t sell as well as you thought it would, and sometimes you make a simpler model that is a huge success.

Sorell trousers

- We live in such a mass-produced, buy-it-now society where everything is either a click or a short drive away, why should people continue to make things by hand? 

I think that when you make things (sewing garments, knitting, patchwork, or even cooking, gardening…), you like the making process as much as the resulting object. For me sewing isn’t about having nice clothes in my wardrobe (even if I like that as well) but about taking the time to make something with my hands, thinking about the details, enjoying all the process, learning new things. And this is priceless.

- If you had the time to sew anything for yourself right now, what would you choose?

I just bought fabric for the last pattern I purchased, the Isla Trench coat by Named patterns, and I’m looking forward to make it. 

- What can we expect from Pauline Alice in the coming months? 

The new pattern will be released in October! 

Quart Coat

How lovely is Pauline!!! Thank you so much for being so open with us, and also bringing so many wonderful patterns and amazingly clear tutorials to the sewing world! 

Friday Randomly Sharing

Happy Friday everyone! Welcome to FRS where I share what has caught my eye recently - but where you could also share what was interest to you - so please make full use of the comment box!

- Let's start by some baking - a nutella cake, sounds good, right?! I saw this post from earlier this month (I caught up a bit with posts this week), and I just knew I had to try it just because it looked beautiful (and yes, it got me started thinking about Xmas, and we know how much I love Xmas!). It looks ok for a first attempt, but the dough is too bread like at the moment, and I think I need a brioche type of dough. I have not found a recipe I like yet, so still on the look out if anyone has any to share? 

- This week, Brooklyn Tweed published it Fall 2015 pattern collection. As always it is worth checking it out just for the photography - how beautiful! I am head over heels about this collection but I do have a favourite, the Bannock cardigan. It is also featured in a beautiful plum colourway, absolutely gorgeous. This collection also features the new BT yarn - quarry - very exciting stuff!

- Talking about new yarn, de Rerum Natura, the ethical yarn from France I talked about here, has also launched new yarns - Albertine (a fingering weight yarn) and Penelope (DK weight). I will have to plan a new project - as if I did not have enough WIPs already. 

- And maybe this new project could be the Farmhouse shawl (by Cabinfour). I have seen many versions of this shawl, and Liesl version is beautiful (and her pictures), and reminded me how much I loved this simple pattern. 

- Fringe Association is organising a tag along in October called Slow fashion October, I will try to join in, will you? 

- An epic knitting project by Kessa in stitches - a knitted lace wedding dress. I won't say more, you have to see it for yourself, it is truly unbelievable. 

- Blanket capes are in (again) this season, check out this DIY to make your own! 

 

- New on my playlist is I can't Feel my Face by The Weeknd - makes me so happy. 

- And well, as I am in the England, I have to remind you (or do I have to?) that today is the start of the Rugby World Cup! Check out Matt Dawson's hakarena video. It is quite funny, but then again I don't support the All Blacks. Allez les Bleus! 

Study of honeycomb :: Knitting ::

Hello everyone! How are you doing? It is Wednesddaaaayyyyyy!!! I have been thinking about this post for a long time. When I was in Brittany this summer, I kept seeing jumpers with a honeycomb stitch pattern all over - especially this one, but I was not ready to pay that price. So I decided to find/knit the honeycomb stitch pattern they used - and after a bit of research I ended up with testing out 4 stitch patterns.

As you can see there are a few options. I knitted 35 stitches in all samples - with the same yarn: Cascade 220 Superwash in Straw (870) on 5 mm needles (destashing). As you can see the samples vary massively in sizes (yes knitting a gauge is critical!). They are all quite easy to knit (once you figured out the obscure symbols - thank you youtube!).

Apart from the effect the texture creates, I would also consider the thickness of the resulting fabric, as if it was all over a jumper (rather than a detail), I could potentially put on some unnecessary extra weight.. Not necessarily a good look - a knowing me a jumper that will stay in my wardrobe.  


1. BRIOCHE HONEYCOMB

This stitch pattern was the most confusing one, and I ended up on this youtube video, and then it all made sense

The written stitch pattern is as follows (on even number of stitches):

Row 1 (RS): : Sl 1 wyif, *k1, k1 through center of st in row below; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, *knit tog next st and longer loop at its base, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, *k1 through centre of st in row below, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, *k1, knit tog next st and longer loop at its base; rep from * to last st, k1. 

Rep Rows 1-4 for pattern

• When knitting into centre of the stitch one row below on RS rows, the new stitch will hold the "heads" of both the stitch that was on the left-hand needle and the stitch below it. In other words, the stitch that was on the left-hand needle drops down.
• When working the wrong-side rows, insert the right-hand needle under the longer loop at the base of this stitch (this long loop is the stitch on the previous row that was dropped down) and then into the stitch on the left-hand needle; then knit them together.

This is quite a stretchy fabric, maybe not ideal for fitted garment - also the the fabric is quite thick. But it is really quick and the pattern is quite striking, so it might be ideal to add some details to something. 

2. PEARL BRIOCHE

This stitch is really subtle and creates quite a light fabric with some interest. Blocking has helped quite a bit. It is also very quick to knit - but beware R1 is the wrong side, and it felt a bit wrong, but it is not, just keep going like the pattern tells you.

This stitch pattern is knitted in a multiple of 2 sts and on a 4-row repeat.

Row 1 (Wrong side): K2, * yf sl 1 yo, k1; repeat from * to end.
Row 2 (Right side): K1, * brk 1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 3: K1, * yf sl 1 yo, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: K2, * brk 1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Knitting abbreviations:

yf sl 1 yo, k1 Bring working yarn to front under the needle, slip 1 stitch purlwise, bring working yarn over top of needle to the back. This produces a yarn over that crosses over the slipped stitch. 

brk 1: Knit the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yarn over. Because the yarn over wasn't counted as a separate stitch on the previous row, no real decrease is made.

3. HONEYCOMB

This is the easiest but least impressive texture I knitted. I think this was my first sample, and I was wondering at the end where I was going with this, and whether I would ever match the stitch I saw on that jumper. 

R1: *k1, sl1*, rep from * to end
R2 and R4: purl
R3: *sl1, k1*, rep from * to end

sl1: slip one stitch

It could be that the yarn I am using is too busy to show this pattern, maybe aneutral block colour would be more appropriate. The good thing is that the fabric is quite tight and will keep you warn in winter. 

4. DIMENSIONAL HONEYCOMB

I pinned this picture more than a year ago, and I knew I wanted to find a stitch pattern that would add interest to cuffs - such a clever trick. I think this one will do the trick. It is not as intricate as the pin one but it would add beautiful texture and interest to a jumper or cardigan. The fabric is quite thick, which is probably why I am more thinking along the lines of cuffs rather than a whole garment. 

Here are the instructions (on even number of stitches, a 4-row repeat):

R1 (RS): k1, *1/1RC, 1/1LC*, k1
R2 and R4: P1, purl all stitches, P1
R3 k1, *1/1LC, 1/1RC*, k1

1/1RC (right cross): with needle in front of first stitch, knit second stitch on the needle them knit first stitch, slipping them both off the needle. 
1/1LC (left cross): With needle behind the first stitch. knit second stitch on the needle through the back loop, then knit first stitch , slipping them both off the needle. 

So here are different options for adding interest to cuffs or the back of a garment maybe. My favourites are the pearl brioche and the dimensional honeycomb. What are yours? 

I am linking to yarn along today. 

Grey and Wild :: Sewing ::

Happy Monday everyone! I have a really cute make to brighten your Monday - especially if the weather is as grey as ours. I sewed my first (sort of) baby coat! And Little Baby MiH is about to wear it quite a lot. 

It feels like I have been working on this project for nearly a year - since I was inspired by this post really. In fact, I bought the pattern and fabric from Ma Petite Mercerie within a month of seeing the post - the outer fabric is this one, and the beautiful lining this one. No ethical fabric this time, but I am destashing as the project has been sitting in my stash until last Thursday when it was really time to make something for Le Challenge for the theme: wilderness. 

As you can see I changed the front opening - I used some shoe laces and buttons from stash. I think it works much better - and in fact I am not sure I would have considered the pattern without seeing Jenny's version. 

The pattern is really well explained, a real pleasure to sew but we need to talk about the size - it goes from 0 to 18 months. Brilliant, so I thought, I will be able to make another version for next winter. Except that I had to sew the 18 months size after measuring Little Baby MiH. He is tall for his age, for sure, but not 18 months tall yet. The coat fits him perfectly though, so if you are sewing for a baby, do measure him/her. 

For all other wilderness makes, go over to Le Challenge and come and join us! The next theme will be announced tomorrow! 

Natural Shades of Pink :: Dyeing Fabric with Avocado Skins with Rebecca Desnos

I am really excited about this tutorial as I have been wanting to dye with avocado skins for a long time - and Rebecca's step by step tutorial is making it easy for me (and you) to try . I dyed naturally yarn in the past – but my results (and process) are so random that I have not tried again. But now that the key ingredient to this tutorial is something I eat a lot of is brilliant, so it should be quick (and easy) to get enough dyestuff!

If you use her tutorial, please let us know and share your makes! 

My name is Rebecca Desnos and I'm a natural dyer who works exclusively with plant dyes and plant fibres. I'm vegan so I don't use any animal fibres such as wool or silk, or animal-derived dyes such as cochineal.

Several years ago I began dyeing with plant extracts such as madder, which produce beautiful and reliable colours, but I discovered that it's much more exciting and rewarding to make my own dyes from scratch.

Avocado skin dye is my current favourite dye and I've always got a jar of dye in the fridge ready to use. The colour is so pretty and I'm always finding new things to put in the dye pot. I think it helps that avocados are one of my favourite foods, so I manage to save up the skins quickly!

I have an Etsy shop with a selection of plant dyed scarves, bags, cushions covers and wooden beads.

This is just my own method of dyeing with avocado skins, but it’s not the only way to do it. It’s through experimentation that you will find what works well for you and you might find an even better way of doing things. For example, how about using rainwater instead of tap water? Try a different type of saucepan to see if that affects the colour. The possibilities are truly endless.

To prepare the fabric for dyeing:

These instructions are for dyeing cellulose (plant) fibres, such as cotton, linen or bamboo.

1. Prewash fabric in the washing machine in a natural laundry liquid (I use ECOS Earth Friendly laundry liquid). Either allow to air dry or go onto next step.

2. Pour a litre of unsweetened soya milk into a bucket and dilute with water. I usually do roughly 1:1 ratio of water to milk. Drop fabric into the bucket of watered down milk and stir. Leave to soak overnight, stirring it a couple of times before going to bed.

3. In the morning, lift out the fabric and squeeze out as much of the soya milk as possible, then put on a spin cycle in the washing machine.

4. Leave to air dry.

5. Drop the fabric back into the bucket of milk for a quick dip. The aim is to coat the fabric evenly with soya milk, without removing the previous dried on layer. If the fabric sits in there too long, the first layer of soya may rinse off.

6. Squeeze as much milk out of the fabric as possible and put on another spin in the washing machine and then leave to air dry.

7. Do a final quick dip in the soya milk, then squeeze out as much milk as possible hang up to drip dry. Depending on the weather, this final stage can be a bit smelly, so it’s best to dry outside if possible.

8. Once the fabric is completely dry, place it in a plastic bag and store it for at least a week before using.

Note: This soya milk method is not my own, and I first read about it in India Flint’sbook ‘ Eco Colour’. The idea is that the protein in the milk coats the cellulose fibres and makes them more protein-like, increasing the absorption of the plant dye. From my own tests I’ve found that this method really does help achieve darker shades.

To prepare the avocado skin dye bath:

I collect avocado skins over the course of a few weeks. I scrape and rinse the skins then place them in a bag in the freezer. I’ve only dyed with hass avocados as these are the only ones available in my local shops, but I’m sure that other varieties produce equally beautiful shades.

1. Weigh the dry fabric and use at least this weight of avocado skins. The higher the ratio of avocado skins to fabric, the more concentrated the dye, and therefore the deeper the colour. I often use 2:1 ratio of avocado skins to fabric to get a really deep colour.

2. Place the avocado skins in an aluminium saucepan and cover with tap water so that all skins are submerged. 

3. Heat for at least an hour and stir from time to time. The skins will soften and break down.

4. Leave to cool, then strain the mixture through a sieve lined with a fine cloth such as muslin. The colour of the water should be a deep red. Squeeze the pulp in the cloth to extract as much of the concentrated colour as possible.

5. The dye is now ready to use. If you’re not ready to use straight away, it can be stored in the fridge.

Dyeing the fabric:

Decide how you will dye your fabric. Will you dye it an even shade? If so, you may need to add extra water to the dye pot so the fabric can move about freely. Will you fold up and tie the fabric to create patterns?

1. Drop the fabric into the aluminium saucepan (reserved just for dyeing) and add extra water to make sure all the fabric is submerged and can about move freely. 

2. Heat the saucepan for at least an hour and allow the dye bath to simmer, ensuring the fabric is always submerged. Stir from time to time with a wooden spoon (never to be used again for cooking!) and keep a close eye on it to make sure that it doesn’t boil.

3. Leave the fabric to cool in the dyebath over night. 

4. Further heating may deepen the shade, but may not be necessary if you already have a deep shade. 

5. Take the fabric out of the dyebath and squeeze out as much liquid as possible and leave to drip dry.

6. Once the fabric is dry, it’s best to be patient and let the fabric sit for at least a week (the longer the better) before rinsing. This should help with the fastness of the dye.

7. Once I’ve rinsed the fabric, I usually put it on a short wash cycle in the washing machine, then let the fabric dry naturally. Then it’s ready to use for whatever you’d like!

Note on light and wash fastness:

According to my own tests, the colour lasts well using this soya milk method, but it is dependent on so many variables, so you would need to do your own tests to see how fast your colour is.

Please bear in mind that all dyes, even synthetic ones, will fade in bright sunlight, so it’s important to treat dyed fabric with care. I always store naturally dyed scarves in a cupboard to avoid fading. I also avoid washing naturally dyed fabrics too frequently and will often air out a scarf rather than washing, to help preserve the colour.

I’ve found that avocado skin dye fixed with this soya milk method to fair well in light fastness tests (actually better than some other dyes fixed with chemical mordants!) and it actually yellows if it’s exposed to sunlight, rather than fades.

Thanks Rebecca for this amazing tutorial, please share your makes with me and Rebecca, she is on IG and twitter @rebeccadesnos!