Summer dress anyone? :: Dressmaking Inspiration ::

*Do not forget to enter my current giveaway here*

There are a few reasons why I am keen to improve on my dressmaking skills - one of them is to able to recreate some items of my favourite fashion designers, for instance Maje, and save some pennies in the process.

I love Maje style but find sometimes that it just on the too-expensive side for me, especially when it comes to dresses - I hardly wear any so I am not necessarily ready to splash out. However I am a happy browser, and when I saw the Rayano dress in the flesh, I just knew I had to share with you this possible adaptation of the Cami dress, so you could have yours too (for a fraction of the price) - or make another Cami dress if you have the pattern like me!

Pattern: Cami dress by Pauline Alice Patterns (my version is here)

Fabric: I chose an organic eyelet fabric in 'natural', but I also love this organic blue fabric - if you are keen on red, you may consider this one.

Probable modifications: Remove the collar 

(whoohoo collarless, such an obvious modification); 

Maybe shorten it as well,

and Add more fabric to the get a fuller skirt.

Dress: You can buy the dress here. 

We are looking at a grand total of £55.00 which is not cheap of course, but still saves £250.00 on the Maje dress - a pretty good result - and of course allows me to make different versions of a pattern I already have (and get the colour and borderie anglaise detailing I want)! 

You can see my inspiration to make other designer garments here.

Follow your passion :: Interview with Pauline of Pauline Alice Patterns

Hello everyone! I hope everyone had a great weekend.

Have you ever wondered how it would feel to give up your day job and follow your passion, and make it work. I am not about to do that, in fact I am going back to my day job in November - but this was my dream job for a long time. Now I am wondering more and more what it would be like to do something with this crafting obsession I have. To find out more I have decided to interview those who just went for it.  

This month I am talking to Pauline of Pauline Alice patterns about her experience as an indie pattern designer. She has her own style, so feminine yet simple, it is no wonder I have already sewn three of her patterns (here, here and here). She is also French and lives abroad, in Spain in her case, so I feel we have a bit in common as well. I hope you enjoyed this series as much as I do.

Turia dungarees

Hi Pauline, so tell us more about you getting involved in sewing?

I started sewing when I moved to Spain. I was reading some sewing blogs and thought I would love to try it. So I bought a machine and started sewing with some vintage patterns.

- Have you always known you were going to be a pattern designer? 

I have always loved to design, draw and make things in general. As a teenager, I fancied myself a future fashion designer but didn’t go through and ended up studying English literature at university. But I loved fashion and always dreamt of doing something artistic and creative.

- When did you start to draft your own patterns? How did you acquire the skills you needed to feel you could start of? 

I started making self-drafted patterns a few months after starting to sew. At the beginning, they were easy (a simple skirt or dress) and I guess not very well-fitted, but I loved the possibilities it offered. I made my first commercial pattern in September 2013. During the 3 previous years, I had learnt to make tailored garments and draft some patterns by reading some books on the subject, taking classes on internet (I’m a big fan of Craftsy) and lots of toiles!

Details from Eliana dress

- What would say your signature style in your designs is?

My style is clearly feminine and with a retro flair. I think the signature style would be a fit and flare dress and a great coat – I love coats! The common theme would be feminine details: it can be a pleated yoke, or a collar, pockets – yes what my patterns have in common are pockets: they all have pockets! Which means, I guess, that the Pauline Alice sewists like girly and practical garments ;-)

- What is your best-selling pattern? 

My best selling pattern is still the Camí dress, the first pattern I released. It has to do with the fact that it’s great for everyday and every season (my own version is here).

- When did you make the switch from 'regular work to make business out of your passion? 

The first two years in Spain, I had a “regular” job, but every free time I had I spent sewing. When my contract ended, I thought it was the perfect time to think about what I wanted to do. So I started drafting the Camí dress and releasing it on PDF first.

- Do you have an aim in mind - number of patterns per year, number of sales, etc? 

I try to release between 4 and 6 patterns per year but I don’t have any bigger aim. I try to get better patterns every time and learn from the sewists reviews.

- How do you run the business side of Pauline Alice? Do you have external help (at this stage)?

I work alone at home, the business part is the most difficult for me. If I could I would spend all my time designing patterns but unfortunately, there’s a lot more that needs to be done: invoices, books, shipments… Sometimes I would like to have an external point of view. Being on my own, it’s difficult to see the big picture and know what decisions are good or not.

- What do you do to make your workplace an enriching and inspiring place to be?

I’m not sure my workplace is enriching or inspiring ;-) I work at home and I’m lucky enough to have my home room to work (even though the whole house if full of fabric, patterns, boxes…). But I’m dreaming of a big studio… maybe in my next house.

 - What sort of things are inspiring you right now?

I like to spend time looking at Pinterest, don’t we all? But sometimes I’m inspired by looks on the street, in a movie, a magazine.

- When do you feel the most creative?

 Usually the best ideas occur when I’m not looking for one! So I try to always carry a notebook and pencil with me to draw.

- How do you combat creative blocks?

I try to think about something else and just relax. As I just told you before, ideas don’t always come when you need them.

- How do you know that designs will resonate with people?

I guess you never know. Sometimes you spend a lot of time on a pattern and it doesn’t sell as well as you thought it would, and sometimes you make a simpler model that is a huge success.

Sorell trousers

- We live in such a mass-produced, buy-it-now society where everything is either a click or a short drive away, why should people continue to make things by hand? 

I think that when you make things (sewing garments, knitting, patchwork, or even cooking, gardening…), you like the making process as much as the resulting object. For me sewing isn’t about having nice clothes in my wardrobe (even if I like that as well) but about taking the time to make something with my hands, thinking about the details, enjoying all the process, learning new things. And this is priceless.

- If you had the time to sew anything for yourself right now, what would you choose?

I just bought fabric for the last pattern I purchased, the Isla Trench coat by Named patterns, and I’m looking forward to make it. 

- What can we expect from Pauline Alice in the coming months? 

The new pattern will be released in October! 

Quart Coat

How lovely is Pauline!!! Thank you so much for being so open with us, and also bringing so many wonderful patterns and amazingly clear tutorials to the sewing world! 

Maternity Wear #3 - the Carme Blouse | A finish {Dressmaking}

Here is the dedicated post to the Carme blouse by Pauline Alice and the maternity wear modifications. I made a (very small) mock version of the modifications which I hope will help those who would like to adapt the pattern. I also made minor changes to the pattern. But let me start by saying that I would not have been able to complete the pattern without the sew-along - well I would, but it would have taken even more time than it already did. Also it is quite reassuring knowing that you are doing the right thing. I did not follow all the steps of the sew-along, just a couple (the maternity modification, the pin tucks and the sleeves vents).

The fabric is 'plumetis' (or swiss dot fabric, thanks Sonja for the translation) - a fine lightweight dress fabric of cotton that is woven with raised dots  on a plain background producing an embroidered effect. I tend to use lightweight fabric for maternity wear tops because there is so much bulk you can away with. I had mine in my stash - I found it at Ma Petite Mercerie (a French shop), I got the taupe colour, but there is a wide range of colour. 

I had 5 matching buttons in my stash - bought in a charity shop a bit of time ago - that I really wanted to use. I had to adjust the placket accordingly - 3 buttons for the placket and 2 to be able to roll up the sleeves. I also changed the collar - making it smaller so it is flush with the placket. I like Mao style collar but I thought the original collar sat a bit too high - I suppose my version is more casual. 

So here are the maternity wear modifications. The sew-along modifications suggest a gathering alterations (as I did with Tova) but I wanted to try another modifications - using a pleat. Although I like the finish, it is a bit tricky to match the end of the placket with the middle of the pleat. 

Here are a few pictures on how to make the pleat.

1. Mark the excess fabric (the sew along modification makes this easy) and the centre

2. Match the marks and pin

 3. Draw a line for about 5'

4. Baste (I am a great believer in basting but I know it adds steps). I only use one knot so it is easy to remove. 

5. Iron down the pleat in the middle

6. Match the centre of the top and bottom fabrics

7. Pin and sew according to pattern seam allowance

8. Et voila!  

It is quite a neat way to do it. I think it can really work for both maternity wear and just adding a feature to a top. I am hoping it means that I will also get some wear out of the Carme post-pregnancy. 

I love the sleeves details - it makes the shirt much a more professional finish compared to other tops I have made. 

As you can see it is totally wearable for any occasion, even on a bouncy castle with a toddler (I am not event looking too pregnant in this picture). 

I wished I had left a bit of fabric at the bottom. I am now nearly 7 months pregnant and it is fine, but it is probably not going to last me that long - although the maternity jeans is/will be helpful. 

I made a size 42/44 (following the measurements) but I should have really stuck to my normal size (40/42) - it would have been a bit more hugging, and less pregnancy-like. But give me a month, and I might be happy to have that excess fabric on the sides! 

I do love that shirt, it works for casual look as well as work wear. I like how the plumetis adds interest to the fabric in a subtle way. You can read Michelle's review here. 

This is of course not my first time sewing a Pauline Alice patterns, and in addition to the sew along videos the illustrations are really good and make the process very enjoyable. You can see my Cami dress and Malvarosa dress here and here - all made when I was not pregnant, those were easy times to sew garments! 

Can normal sewing patterns work for maternity wear? #2

*For a chance to win one yard of organic cotton fabric dyed naturally

please make sure you enter the giveaway here*

After the fun and success of our first project together, we decided to sew together again.

So the aim is still to sew the SAME normal pattern, but the choice is probably more limited as we have to be able to adapt for maternity wear. In between the posts, we email each other of course talking about the process, what we learn, how we get on, modifications we are considering but also potential new patterns we should try. We will probably post one post together with our final garment, and another one explaining the modifications made to adapt them to our current shapes. 

Our first pattern was the TOVA from Wiksten. The second one is the Carme Blouse by Pauline Alice. There is a sew-along on Pauline's blog, and it provides instructions on how to modify the pattern for pregnancy wear.  

The Carme Blouse is a feminine shirt with a small mao style collar and lots of details! Depending on the fabric you choose, it has the potential to be very versatile, perfect for work or weekend wear. 

The pattern is definitely the most challenging one that we have used (ever), notably in terms of number of pieces you have to deal with but also the finishing (the pin tucks of course, but also the sleeves). All these details make the shirt look very professional in the end, and the sew-along makes the process as painless as possible. The instructions for this pattern are very detailed and full of illustrations. Now that the Carme is done, it really gives us confident to tackle more advanced projects.  

As for the fit, we both had to grade it, and still wondering whether the fit is right. It may be an idea to go one size smaller than the measurements suggest to make it more fitted, which will work better (even for the maternity version). A lot of bloggers have made a few versions of the Carme blouse for their wardrobe. The look is quite distinctive, and there may be some many Carme you would want to have in your wardrobe. The process may also deter us from making more of them, but it is probably not a definite no - just a no right now.

We would rate this an advanced intermediate pattern - there are few tricky bits and a lot of finishing to do (and many trips to the ironing board for those pin tucks!), and many pieces to handle (and try not to lose). Do choose a fabric that marks easily - there are a lot of things that will go on it. 

Have you made the Carme blouse? What was your experience? For our own modifications, check out our blogs in the course of the week! 

We have chosen our next pattern (with less pieces), and now comes the choice of fabrics - always an exciting part!

The Green Malvarosa | A Finish {Dressmaking}

 Beware - this post contains some dodgy poses 

and non-existent hair and make up styling... 

But at least it was not raining!

I have finally made the Malvarosa. I thought I would have had this dress by Christmas (hence the Christmas tree colour) but there were way too many things going on at the time. However if I had known it was that quick to make, maybe I should have allocated some time! 

Pattern: The Malvarosa dress by Pauline Alice (available here) - 

Pauline also designed the Cami dress

Fabric: A boiled wool jersey fabric found 

at my local John Lewis (Welwyn GC) - similar online here. 

For info, I used my normal sewing foot. 

Size: 42 but probably made a size 38 in the end

Modifications: Less loose fitting and shorter. Also I made the hems more visible, but I may change that modifications. I am not sure it works.

Result: It is really a fun dress, very feminine. I made a more winter version, but I reckon it would be an awesome summer dress as well. I was wondering whether to make the pockets and I am glad I did - it adds to the fun size of the dress. 

this is my very serious pose

Here are my five things to know about the Malvarosa:

• It is quick to make - I did it within a week (including putting the pattern together) - and probably spending an hour and a half every day on it. 
• There are two tricky sewing points: the inserting of the sleeves at an angle (see this tutorial for help); and the gathering of the skirt (see this tutorial for help). 
• The pattern is a loose fitting version - I cut mine in a size 42 but by the time I changed what I wanted to change, I probably made a size 38. 
• I wished I had seen this version and the use of a patterned fabric before making mine
• Proportions are key to this dress (see picture below). I made it much shorter to suit my size - this is really easy to modify of course. I cut the suggested size for the skirt and just shorten to the size I wanted it to be. 

This is a Ted Baker version (seen on IG and facebook) - and it felt wrong on me 

I have bought some fabric to make a black version of this dress for work. I know:  handmade clothes at work - even considering it makes me feel all funny. I try to wear colours at work - but this would just be just a step too far - I may also have to make it a tad longer. But it is so comfortable, and I don't feel too self-conscious about it, that I have to make one!

I had to add this last picture .. an interesting shot of me twirling (yes I twirl with my hands like this - don't you?). Mr MiH (and my neighbour incidentally) thought I had gone mental. All I can say is that we have now established that I cannot possibly write a fashion blog!

In case you were not convinced about the dress, you may have noticed that I did not mention a zipper - because there is none to sew in. No buttons, no zipper. I know, brilliant right! So have you bought it already?

Cami Dress | A finish {Dressmaking}

This post should have appeared on the blog ages ago . Pauline, je suis vraiment désolée. And with no further ado here it is: my first ever handmade dress. Impressed? Well, I impressed my family (I had them all here for the finish, so there was a lot of scrutinising being done).

There is a reason why you don’t see a lot of dresses (or other girly garments) on the blog, I don’t do dresses. Mr MiH did have to mention that he did not want me to wear a trouser suit at our wedding… I was supposed to arrive in a white dress, as I mentioned I don’t do dresses. I am warming towards dresses though, and skirts, I suppose losing a bit of weight helped, running shaped my legs a bit, and maybe I have grown up of my tomboy phase (probably about time..).  And I now know how to make one, well who knows that we will find on the blog.

I went for black, totally playing it safe here (for my shape but also to hide any sewing imperfections). Let’s remember this is my first handmade dress - ever. However it quickly became obvious I could potentially look like I was making a dress to go to a funeral. Not exactly what I had in mind. I therefore spent some time working out details I could add to the dress to make it more fun and interesting. I used some Summersville fabric I already had in my stash (a FQ if I remember well) for the cuffs, the collar and the pockets. I also had a chance to use some vintage buttons I bought on Ebay a long time ago – they work perfectly with that dress.  

Pattern: Cami Dress from Pauline Alice (there is  SAL happening right now as well!)

Fabric: Lightweight Cotton Drill in Black (perfect for the Autumn, and need a minimum of ironing!!) from Abakhan Fabrics and a FQ of Summersville; Vintage buttons found on Ebay

Modifications: Apart from the fabric choice, I had an issue with the bust (small bust for large frame it seemed), I added two darts to add shape. Apart from that I was pattern testing, so did as I was told. I made the biggest size (44)

Review of the pattern: This is a great pattern, for the Autumn or the Summer. It is vintage, but you can really add a modern twist to it. I had in mind to make an African print version, but that may be for next summer. The explanations on the pattern are very comprehensive, and with the SAL on the blog, you cannot fail on this dress (even with the side zip – I was SO happy when I managed it!)

So who is missing a piece of vintage and a dress in their wardrobe? Try the pattern, you will be amazed at what you can do! (and then come back and tell me all about it!)