Hello everyone! How are you doing? It is Wednesddaaaayyyyyy!!! I have been thinking about this post for a long time. When I was in Brittany this summer, I kept seeing jumpers with a honeycomb stitch pattern all over - especially this one, but I was not ready to pay that price. So I decided to find/knit the honeycomb stitch pattern they used - and after a bit of research I ended up with testing out 4 stitch patterns.
As you can see there are a few options. I knitted 35 stitches in all samples - with the same yarn: Cascade 220 Superwash in Straw (870) on 5 mm needles (destashing). As you can see the samples vary massively in sizes (yes knitting a gauge is critical!). They are all quite easy to knit (once you figured out the obscure symbols - thank you youtube!).
Apart from the effect the texture creates, I would also consider the thickness of the resulting fabric, as if it was all over a jumper (rather than a detail), I could potentially put on some unnecessary extra weight.. Not necessarily a good look - a knowing me a jumper that will stay in my wardrobe.
1. BRIOCHE HONEYCOMB
This stitch pattern was the most confusing one, and I ended up on this youtube video, and then it all made sense
The written stitch pattern is as follows (on even number of stitches):
Row 1 (RS): : Sl 1 wyif, *k1, k1 through center of st in row below; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, *knit tog next st and longer loop at its base, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, *k1 through centre of st in row below, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, *k1, knit tog next st and longer loop at its base; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep Rows 1-4 for pattern
2. PEARL BRIOCHE
This stitch is really subtle and creates quite a light fabric with some interest. Blocking has helped quite a bit. It is also very quick to knit - but beware R1 is the wrong side, and it felt a bit wrong, but it is not, just keep going like the pattern tells you.
This stitch pattern is knitted in a multiple of 2 sts and on a 4-row repeat.
Row 1 (Wrong side): K2, * yf sl 1 yo, k1; repeat from * to end.
Row 2 (Right side): K1, * brk 1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 3: K1, * yf sl 1 yo, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: K2, * brk 1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Knitting abbreviations:
yf sl 1 yo, k1 Bring working yarn to front under the needle, slip 1 stitch purlwise, bring working yarn over top of needle to the back. This produces a yarn over that crosses over the slipped stitch.
brk 1: Knit the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yarn over. Because the yarn over wasn't counted as a separate stitch on the previous row, no real decrease is made.
- When knitting into centre of the stitch one row below on RS rows, the new stitch will hold the "heads" of both the stitch that was on the left-hand needle and the stitch below it. In other words, the stitch that was on the left-hand needle drops down.
- When working the wrong-side rows, insert the right-hand needle under the longer loop at the base of this stitch (this long loop is the stitch on the previous row that was dropped down) and then into the stitch on the left-hand needle; then knit them together.
This is quite a stretchy fabric, maybe not ideal for fitted garment - also the the fabric is quite thick. But it is really quick and the pattern is quite striking, so it might be ideal to add some details to something.
2. PEARL BRIOCHE
This stitch is really subtle and creates quite a light fabric with some interest. Blocking has helped quite a bit. It is also very quick to knit - but beware R1 is the wrong side, and it felt a bit wrong, but it is not, just keep going like the pattern tells you.
This stitch pattern is knitted in a multiple of 2 sts and on a 4-row repeat.
Row 1 (Wrong side): K2, * yf sl 1 yo, k1; repeat from * to end.
Row 2 (Right side): K1, * brk 1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 3: K1, * yf sl 1 yo, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: K2, * brk 1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Knitting abbreviations:
yf sl 1 yo, k1 Bring working yarn to front under the needle, slip 1 stitch purlwise, bring working yarn over top of needle to the back. This produces a yarn over that crosses over the slipped stitch.
brk 1: Knit the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yarn over. Because the yarn over wasn't counted as a separate stitch on the previous row, no real decrease is made.
3. HONEYCOMB
This is the easiest but least impressive texture I knitted. I think this was my first sample, and I was wondering at the end where I was going with this, and whether I would ever match the stitch I saw on that jumper.
This is the easiest but least impressive texture I knitted. I think this was my first sample, and I was wondering at the end where I was going with this, and whether I would ever match the stitch I saw on that jumper.
R1: *k1, sl1*, rep from * to end
R2 and R4: purl
R3: *sl1, k1*, rep from * to end
sl1: slip one stitch
It could be that the yarn I am using is too busy to show this pattern, maybe aneutral block colour would be more appropriate. The good thing is that the fabric is quite tight and will keep you warn in winter.
4. DIMENSIONAL HONEYCOMB
I pinned this picture more than a year ago, and I knew I wanted to find a stitch pattern that would add interest to cuffs - such a clever trick. I think this one will do the trick. It is not as intricate as the pin one but it would add beautiful texture and interest to a jumper or cardigan. The fabric is quite thick, which is probably why I am more thinking along the lines of cuffs rather than a whole garment.
Here are the instructions (on even number of stitches, a 4-row repeat):
R1 (RS): k1, *1/1RC, 1/1LC*, k1
R2 and R4: P1, purl all stitches, P1
R3 k1, *1/1LC, 1/1RC*, k1
1/1RC (right cross): with needle in front of first stitch, knit second stitch on the needle them knit first stitch, slipping them both off the needle.
1/1LC (left cross): With needle behind the first stitch. knit second stitch on the needle through the back loop, then knit first stitch , slipping them both off the needle.
So here are different options for adding interest to cuffs or the back of a garment maybe. My favourites are the pearl brioche and the dimensional honeycomb. What are yours?
I am linking to yarn along today.
R2 and R4: purl
R3: *sl1, k1*, rep from * to end
sl1: slip one stitch
It could be that the yarn I am using is too busy to show this pattern, maybe aneutral block colour would be more appropriate. The good thing is that the fabric is quite tight and will keep you warn in winter.
4. DIMENSIONAL HONEYCOMB
I pinned this picture more than a year ago, and I knew I wanted to find a stitch pattern that would add interest to cuffs - such a clever trick. I think this one will do the trick. It is not as intricate as the pin one but it would add beautiful texture and interest to a jumper or cardigan. The fabric is quite thick, which is probably why I am more thinking along the lines of cuffs rather than a whole garment.
Here are the instructions (on even number of stitches, a 4-row repeat):
R1 (RS): k1, *1/1RC, 1/1LC*, k1
R2 and R4: P1, purl all stitches, P1
R3 k1, *1/1LC, 1/1RC*, k1
1/1RC (right cross): with needle in front of first stitch, knit second stitch on the needle them knit first stitch, slipping them both off the needle.
1/1LC (left cross): With needle behind the first stitch. knit second stitch on the needle through the back loop, then knit first stitch , slipping them both off the needle.
So here are different options for adding interest to cuffs or the back of a garment maybe. My favourites are the pearl brioche and the dimensional honeycomb. What are yours?
I am linking to yarn along today.
